What to do in the greenhouse in the fall - the most important work at the end of the season

Proper conservation of the greenhouse for the winter is a guarantee of its long service and good harvests. What and when you need to do with this building, so that it does not become a hotbed of disease and collapses ahead of time?

First you need to understand that you have to maintain the greenhouse every year, and it does not matter what model you have. Both wooden, film-covered, and polycarbonate, and heated greenhouses are waiting for similar works from you, which you should not miss.

Before proceeding with the seasonal cleaning of the greenhouse, remove all plant residues from it. At low temperatures, plants still will not give new flowers and ovaries, but they will disturb you. In addition, repair everything that has been assembled, remove the supports, the bush holders and the laid paths or ridges of the ridges.

Turn off the electricity and remove the sensors

If a light or an electric heating system is installed in your greenhouse, temperature and humidity sensors are installed in it, then everything must be de-energized for the winter. Temperature fluctuations and dampness of the off-season can ruin expensive equipment, so all the sensors need to be removed and put away in a dry heated room.

Rinse and dry the irrigation system.

When freezing, water can break the pipes and connections, which means that the irrigation system, if you have one, needs to be dried for the winter. However, before you begin to purge the pipes, clean and disinfect them. This can be done with a solution of orthophosphoric acid or the drug Pekatsid and its analogues. Fill them with the system and leave for 2-3 hours, then rinse with strong pressure with clean water and dry.

If there are barrels of water in the greenhouse in the summer, empty them and disinfect with a similar agent, and leave them empty for the winter. Drip tape with drip irrigation systems is also desirable to remove and remove.

Change or disinfect the soil

The soil in the greenhouse is actively exploited, accumulating in itself the remains of fungicides, insecticides, fertilizers and salts. Because of this, over several years it becomes unsuitable for growing plants and turns into a breeding ground for diseases and pests. The best solution is to change the soil every 2-3 years. It is necessary to remove a layer 25-30 cm thick (on the spade bayonet), and before that you need to remove the mulch, if there was one.

If it is impossible to replace the greenhouse soil, it will have to be reanimated. To begin with, disinfect the soil with biological products that, in addition to suppressing microorganisms, heal the soil, for example, Fitosporin, Fitotsid M, Baikal EM-5, Baktofit, Trichodermin, Planzir, Alirin B, etc. They are brought into the ground two weeks before the autumn frosts to a depth of 5-10 cm. In spring, the treatment can be repeated. Then for each square meter, add 40-50 kg of compost or rotted manure and carry out a deep two-level digging. Then spill the soil with drugs that accelerate the decomposition and humification of plant residues.

For those who are not afraid to make additional efforts, the construction of warm compost ridges in a greenhouse will be a good option. To do this, a layer of fresh manure 15-25 cm thick is added to the excavated trenches, a layer of plant residues 25-30 cm thick is on top, and 20 cm of soil or finished compost are covered at the end. In autumn and beginning of spring, the contents of the trenches will begin to decompose, and in the spring you will get a ready-made warm ridge with fertile soil.

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If the greenhouse you freed from planting in early September, you can improve the soil in it and with the help of sideratov. Plant oilseed radish, oats, mustard, or other fast-growing, cold-resistant siderat, and just before the cold, mow the green mass and close it up into the soil.

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Fertilize

To bring into the ground in the autumn is not only organic matter, but also complex mineral fertilizers. If your greenhouse remains covered throughout the year and is not affected by rain and snow, you can apply potash and phosphate fertilizers as early as September-October. They will gradually dissolve in moist soil, but will not be washed out of it and will be available for plants in spring. On average, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 25-30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate are applied per 1 sq. M of soil.

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Wash and disinfect frame and walls

To get rid of fungi, bacteria and wintering pests, the walls of the greenhouse should be thoroughly washed with soap and water, both from the inside and outside. Copper or iron sulfate should be added to the solution to make it even more effective.

Then you need to close the greenhouse and light the sulfur bomb inside. Climate installed on a brick or other flat solid non-combustible surface. Although the checker burns for several hours, it is impossible to enter the greenhouse for three days in order not to breathe sulfurous anhydride. After applying the checkers, the greenhouse needs to be thoroughly ventilated, washed out again with soot, and then the preparations that contribute to the restoration of soil fertility (for example, Baikal EM-1, Biokompleks BTU Soil Health, etc.) should be added, since as a result of fumigation, along with diseases, many beneficial fungi and bacteria die.

In greenhouses, the frame of which is made of unpainted metal profile, sulfur checkers cannot be used, since This will lead to corrosion.

Wooden frame parts should be sprayed or painted with a 3% solution of copper or iron sulphate to protect against rotting and pathogenic fungi. Especially carefully with the same solution it is worth treating joints, crevices, cracks and other secluded places where pests willingly arrange for wintering.

Air the greenhouse

After disinfection, the greenhouse must be ventilated by opening doors and vents wide open. So that the moisture does not stagnate inside, it is desirable to leave the door open for the whole winter, and in order not to warp the frame, it can be removed altogether.

You can remove the polycarbonate from the greenhouse completely and remove it for the winter in a dry place.

By the way, some gardeners dismantle the ends of polycarbonate greenhouses for the cold season, and collect them back in late February or early March, i.e. 3-4 weeks before the start of work in the greenhouse.

Install supports

If everything is simple with film greenhouses, and for the winter the covering material is removed and stored separately, then there are nuances with polycarbonate. Removing it every year does not make sense, but it is dangerous to leave it on the roof - it can break under a layer of snow.

To avoid this, you must either regularly clean the snow from the greenhouse, or install inside the struts. The first option is more difficult, but more effective - to come to the garden after every heavy snowfall and it is not easy to clean everything up, but this way you precisely protect the greenhouse from damage. If this is not possible, scrape structures that look like giant mops or T letters and set them so that a piece of polycarbonate rests on the slope of the roof on a horizontal crossbar.

Preparing a greenhouse for the winter may take you a whole weekend, but you cannot refuse it. In addition, all work falls on the autumn period after the harvest, when the work on the site is becoming less. Believe me, this time will not be spent in vain, and in the spring you will be able, with a clear conscience, to plant greens and seedlings in a clean and safe greenhouse.

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Watch the video: 5 BEST Things To Do In Winter! - Stardew Valley (November 2019).

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