So that next year the queen of the flower garden again pleased with its lush flowering, you need to correctly prepare the roses for winter. We will tell you how to properly care for flowers before severe frosts.
Preparation of roses for winter begins in mid-August, when the plants stop feeding with nitrogen. And the last fertilization (potassium and phosphorus) is carried out at the very beginning of September. This provokes the rapid formation of dense bark and reduces the plant's response to temperature changes.
At the beginning of autumn, roses can be fed with this fertilizer: mix 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g of boric acid, dilute this mass in 10 l of water and use it during watering as a root. The resulting amount of solution should be enough for an area of 3-4 sq.m. For foliar nutrition, prepare fertilizer from equal parts of potassium monophosphate and superphosphate (15 g each) and 30 liters of water.
After that, roses are prepared for hibernation and shelter for the winter.
Some roses of the new varieties have lost the internal "timer", which tells the flowers the time of the hibernation period. Such plants can "meet" frosts with buds and young leaves. As a result, the bush will freeze. To avoid this, you need to help the rose "fall asleep" before the frosts hit.
In mid-September, start gradually reducing watering, stop loosening the soil, do not make any dressings and pinch the buds and young growth. If there are prolonged rains in the fall, cover the roses with a film so that the plants do not become too wet.
During pinching, buds and overgrowths are buried, but not removed. They dry naturally.
Also during September, regularly remove fallen leaves in a rose garden and burn them. This is necessary so that the remains of plants do not rot and infect roses.
Pruning roses for the winter
When the night frosts begin (usually in the second half of September - early October), remove all the remaining buds, cut out the weak, underexposed and growing shoots in the middle of the bush, as well as excess growth. At the same time, autumn pruning of roses is carried out gradually from September to November, and not in one day, so that the bush is freed from excess shoots and leaves step by step.
So, by November there should be only 3-5 strong branches with dense bark and 3-4 well-developed buds on the bush. Cut the stalks too long.
Cut the cut with a sharp pruner diagonally at a 45-degree angle.
Roses are recommended to be cut to the waning moon, therefore, before carrying out this operation, consult the lunar calendar.
- How to cut roses in the garden?We reveal the secrets of correct pruning roses of different types.
Processing and hilling bushes
Cut roses sprayed with 5% solution of copper sulfate or 3% Bordeaux liquid. So you will not leave any chance of fungal diseases.
After that, pile up the bush with peat so that the vaccination site is completely buried. Typically, the peat layer is 20-30 cm. At the same time, note that it must be completely dry. Such hilling will protect the stems from cracking, and the root system from freezing.
When hilling roses instead of peat, you can use sand or sawdust
Preparing roses for cover - final touches
Do not rush to insulate the bushes with spanbond, spruce, burlap and other covering materials. Plants of modern varieties are able to withstand temperatures down to -10 ° C (and some up to -20 ° C). Therefore, watch the weather and cover the bushes when the temperature is 0 ° C outside, but there will not be much snow yet. Most often, roses cover in late November - early December.
Shortly before the roses are sheltered, it is advisable to install arcs or supports to support the insulation material. So the protection of bushes from freezing and bloating will be more reliable.
Now your roses are ready to "put on" warm "fur coats" and protect yourself from frost. To find out which material is better to warm plants, read the article How to cover roses for the winter - the best options for winter shelter.