It is necessary to care for currants from spring to autumn. If you let everything take its course, the harvest will inevitably fall, and the berries will be small and tasteless. Even the best varieties of currants can not reach their full potential.
Currant is one of the most beloved berries and a real survivor of our gardens. That is why many consider it an unpretentious plant and completely forget to take care of it. If you belong to this category of gardeners, you know, due to improper care, you annually lose up to 90% of the harvest of tasty and healthy berries.
The most common mistakes in the cultivation of currants on the site and how to fix them, tell the experts of the company Becker.
Error 1. You think that currants do not need to be watered
Currants, especially black, very poorly tolerate the lack of moisture in the soil. This leads to a delay in the growth of bushes, as well as a significant loss of harvest - the berries are far less knotted, they will grow small, dry and with thick, thick skins.
However, over-irrigation, which leads to the cracking of the berries, the defeat of fungal diseases and the decay of the roots, is no less harmful.
What to do?
Water the currant bushes three times per season:
- first time - in late May - early June, when there is an active growth and the appearance of ovaries on plants;
- second time - at the end of June, when berries start ripening on the bushes;
- third time - after harvest, because at this time, flower buds are laid for the next year’s harvest.
Depending on the age of the currant, for each bush spend from 2 to 5 buckets of water, which should soak the ground to a depth of 40 cm.
Mistake 2. You do not feed the bushes
Without regular fertilization, the soil under currant bushes is quickly depleted and ceases to supply the plants with macro and microelements necessary for normal growth and development.
What to do?
Most currants need additional feeding during the formation of ovaries and after fruiting. In the first half of the summer, apply nitrogen fertilizers (25-30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. M of circle wheel), and after harvesting, phosphate-potassium at the rate of 40-50 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. M .
Also, once every 2 years in the autumn, currants are recommended to be fed with organic fertilizers (4-6 kg of humus or compost for an adult bush).
Error 3. You do not mulch the soil under the bushes
In the absence of a mulch layer, the soil quickly dries out and becomes overgrown with weeds, which “suck” moisture and nutrients out of it. As a result, you are missing a substantial part of the crop.
What to do?
In the spring or early summer mulch pristvolnye circles currant peat, humus, straw, sawdust or grass cut at least 5 cm.
Error 4. You do not cut currants
Fearing to be mistaken when pruning, many gardeners leave currant bushes intact. As a result, they become heavily thickened, overgrown with old unproductive branches, shading young fruiting shoots, as well as tops - powerful, inclined to the ground unproductive shoots. Such plants produce a very poor harvest and often get sick.
What to do?
Have black currant immediately after planting, shorten all branches to 2–4 well developed buds. In the autumn of next year, leave only 3-4 of the strongest and most well-developed shoots in the bush. Cut all the rest off the ground. In each subsequent year, trim the currants on the same principle - from all the shoots grown during the summer, select the 3-4 strongest and shorten them for better branching, and remove all the others. After 4-5 years you will have a fully formed bush with 15-18 branches of different ages.
Subsequent pruning of black currant bushes is reduced to removing branches older than 5-6 years old (they are the thickest and most branched) and replacing them with the same number of well-developed first-years.
Red and white currant do not form such a large number of shoots as black, and their branches retain their "working capacity" for 7-8 years. Therefore, the principle of pruning these bushes is different. In the first years they spend only sanitary pruning, removing all sick, broken and thickening shoots.
Red currant has the largest number of berries formed on the tips of the shoots. Therefore, in no case can one cut or pinch them - you are depriving yourself of a substantial part of the crop.
From 5-8 years of age, begin to remove the old unproductive branches, which for the season gave few berries or no fruit. On average, to get a good harvest of large berries in a bush of red (white, pink) currant should be 10-12 branches of different ages.
Mistake 5. You do not protect currants from diseases and pests.
Varieties that would be resistant to all existing diseases and pests do not exist. At any stage of development of the bushes can overcome a dangerous ailment. Therefore, the preventive treatment of currant bushes from diseases and pests is an extremely important procedure. If you do not do it, you risk being left without a crop.
What to do?
We offer you a universal scheme of preventive treatments, thanks to which you will significantly reduce the risk of developing the most common diseases (powdery mildew, gray mold, rust, white spot) and protect your currants from the onslaught of pests.
|Development phase||Necessary procedures|
|Early spring, before the buds swell|
|Kidney swelling period|
|Period of budding|
|Immediately after flowering|
|Autumn, after leaf fall|
If you want to minimize the number of treatments, grow resistant to disease and pest varieties.
These varieties include:
black currant - Big Ben, Opening day, Emerald Necklace
red and white currants - Ural beauty, Early sweet, Imperial yellow
Dutch red, Dessert Pink Pearl
Take care of your currant properly and enjoy its delicious, fragrant and very healthy berries. Descriptions and photos of other equally interesting varieties can be found here.
Becker company offers a wide selection of planting material from the best nurseries in Poland, Holland and Russia. We guarantee high quality of our products and fair prices.