Why do not tulips bloom and how to achieve the long-awaited buds

Tulips are considered to be among the most unpretentious bulbous. They are grown even where nothing else can bloom. But sometimes they are capricious and release only leaves. Familiar picture? It always has a reason and a solution.

Your tulips bloomed in the first year, and after only let out the leaves? Or, from the moment of landing, have you not been pleased with anything but abundant greenery? Or maybe the leaves on them really does not happen, and from the planted bulbs left only memories? Let's see why the tulips stopped blooming or didn't start at all.

Poor quality planting material

Not all tulip bulbs are in principle capable of flowering, so they should be chosen very carefully. In the first year only large, strong bulbs bloom, but the “trifle” will accumulate strength for another year or two and grow to the required size. Therefore, if you want to see the flowering of tulips in the first year after planting, choose bulbs with a diameter of more than 5 cm.

Tulips bulbs affected by gray mold

In addition, under the scaly skin of a tulip, an inexperienced gardener may not notice signs of an incipient disease affecting the bulb. White felt bloom on the bulb, moves in it, the absence or unnatural yellow color of the roots indicate the presence of fungal diseases or pests - buying such tulips is not only meaningless, but also dangerous, because they can infect all of your plantings.

Incorrect landing site selected

Hypothetically, a tulip can grow in any part of the garden, even in dense shade or in constant dampness. However, this statement is true only for the "Soviet" red and yellow tulips, and not for modern varietal. If the bulbs are not inherited from your grandmother, and were purchased in the garden center, then you need to choose a site for them much more carefully.

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Varietal tulips prefer sunny, protected from the wind sites. They need at least 8 hours in direct light per day in order to develop full-fledged flowers and accumulate enough strength for the next season. In addition, there are two erroneous opinions among the people: that after the end of flowering, the leaves of tulips should hide other plants and that they cannot be watered during this period.

These almost mutually exclusive requirements are equally meaningless. First, sunlight is necessary for tulips throughout the growing season, until the leaves dry. And secondly, those plants that will cover them after the loss of ornamentation will need regular watering, which means that tulips will also get some water, but they will not be worse off.

Late landing

Like most bulbous spring flowering, tulips are best planted in the fall to quickly see the result of their labors. However, there is also an alternative option for those who bought onions, when it is too late to plant them in the ground.

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Contrary to popular belief that tulips need to be dug up every year after flowering, only many-flowered tulips really need it, the rest grow beautifully when transplanting every 2-3 years.

The weather is now unstable, the calendar landing dates do not want to coincide with the climate, and therefore it is very easy to miscalculate for a couple of weeks. Autumn, which lasts almost until December in the central zone, leaves tulips not only for rooting, but also for growth, and the frosts that hit New Year's Eve kill a fragile sprout that rises above the ground. Most likely, the bulb will remain, but next season will give only leaves.

Excessive or insufficient penetration of the bulb

The tulip develops quite interestingly - it gives a sprout in the autumn, but it should come to the surface only in the spring. Thus, the bulb overwinters with a small sprout, which can easily freeze. In order to avoid this, you need to bury the tulips when planting to a depth of 3 bulbs (to understand exactly how much it is, fold the 3 onions in a row on the spade bayonet).

However, in this matter it is easy to overdo it, then the plant simply does not have enough strength, and it will get out to the air already weakened, but will not be able to bloom. This will be repeated from year to year until the gardener guesses the transplant to a more suitable depth.

Damage to bulbs in the ground

Even selective planting material on an ideal site sometimes does not sprout. What is the matter? Perhaps, besides you, the tulips are also “counted” on mice, snails and beetles. But they are not interested in the flower of a unique color, but in a tasty, juicy onion, which you can eat. They also eat peonies and crocuses, but the smell of grouse planted nearby will scare off rodents. If the plans for the flowerbed will be only tulips, it is desirable to place traps for pests in the ground.

Also, tulip bulbs rot when planted in clay soil. The stagnation of moisture and the poor passage of nutrients can in one season kill even the strongest onion. If you have solid clay on the plot, consider this when planting bulbous.

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Wrong cut

Collecting tulips in lush bouquets, you can also carelessly lose the chance of blooming next year. In order for the bulb to accumulate enough strength, it needs to leave at least two large leaves, otherwise it will simply have nothing to "catch the sun", and ripening will not occur.

But the stem of a tulip can (and should) be cut off completely, up to the lower pair of leaves.

Diseases and pests

Varietal tulips are susceptible to numerous bacterial and fungal infections. The most common of them are gray, white and wet rot, typhoid, white striation, variegation. Both the bulb and the soil can be infected, so you need to comply with the agrotechnology of cultivation and buy planting material only in trusted stores.

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Remember that in most cases it is impossible to cure the affected plant, and if it is kept in the soil for a long time, it can spread the infection to other flowers. Therefore, at the first signs of the disease, remove the flower, burn it together with the bulb. And disinfect the soil at this place.

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Insects can also be the cause of weakening and non-flowering. Most often it is an onion mite, a bear and the larvae of a tuberous hoverfly fly. As a preventive measure, regularly dig up the soil, remove the affected plants, and decontaminate with Bazudin or Thunder before planting or harvesting for storage.

As you can see, most of these problems are completely solvable, and therefore, with proper and timely efforts, you will be able to return the tulip colors to your spring garden.

Watch the video: Gardening Tips : Care of Tulips After Bloom (February 2020).